Travel
Climbing Mount Sinai (Egypt): a hike of a lifetime – part 2
(Part II)
It is with a smiling face that we found our bedouin guide resting at the café, where we had left him in the middle of night.
Pilgrims going down Mount Sinai in early morning
We returned the blankets and started our descent of the rugged mountains, following the hundreds of pilgrims. It was 6:30 a.m.
The ascent had taken 3 hours, how long would it take to go back down?
Despite tiredness and shaky feet, I was happy and eager to discover the scenery which had been hidden to us on the way up. After the 750 steps, our guide asked us what path we wanted to take down. We both wanted to take the more scenic path, known as the path of Repentence or Sikat Sayidna Moussa. We would have to climb down 3750 steps, but it would surely be worth it.
The upper holy door, Mount Sinai
“Here is the first holy door”, said our guide while pointing to it and going through it. The sun was shining on the granite stones, adding colors. It was almost an orange tone. Beautiful!
Apparently the stone path was built by Byzantine monks in the 6th century, taking half a century to finish. The two gates were built by Mose (lowest one) and by Elijah (the top one), an Israelit Prophet in the 9th century. One gate is called Gate St. Stephen, carrying the name of a monk in the 6th century.
In the past, the monks used to stay near the doors to try converting Jews, wanting to climb Mount Sinai. They would not let them go unless they converted to Christianism or had some good knowledge of the Bible.
On the way done you will see various sites like stone buildings, chapels, lush gardens in the middle of the desert, but we did not stop. Our bedouin had to bring us down on time for the visit of the monastery. We were going down quite quickly.
Scenery in the middle of the desert on Mount Sinai
At 7:15 a.m. the sun was already shining so intensively that it was hot enough to put some sun cream and drink water. Amazing how quickly it can warm up in the desert.
You will have to go on and around many steps to go down. You may have read you will have to climb 3.3 feet (1 meter) high stones but this is not the case. I don’t see how anyone could do it at night or on the way back down. It would kill your knees!
I was being cautious on my way down, not wanting to trip. My legs were quite tired. Luckily my hiking shoes were good and the fabulous landscape was distracting me from wanting to take a pause and a nap. If I sit on a rock, I will never be able to stand up again I thought to myself!
Rocky gorge leading to Saint Catherine monastery
When we first saw a glimpse of the monastery of Saint Catherine, I estimated it would take another 45 minutes to reach it and that is exactly what it took. But you can go much faster. An Egyptian man told me he used to go down so quickly, running down the steps every week.
But for me, it was not a race. I had to enjoy it, breath the air, enjoy every minute of it. I was astonished to see so many plants along the way. I did not know their names while climbing down. I researched them a bit later on and found out I had seen some quite unique plants like the Sinai Jerusalem sage. I saw some poisonous plants without knowing it, admired succulents between rocks, tall Sinai Mulleins, many spiny yellow globe thistles, some thym and oregano and much more endangered, vunerable and not at risk plants.
Lush garden in the monastery of Saint Catherine
I also saw some cypresses and olive trees. Apparently the cypresses were brought to Saint Catherine by the monks.
Approaching Saint Catherine monastery
Luckily, no poisonous snakes, scorpions or other insects crossed my way! They probably stay away from people.
It was amazing how quickly people could start talking to each other on the mountain. I met a group of French people, staying in Dahab for a beach vacation. Bedouins were helping the ones with difficulties.
Monastery and fortifications, Mount Sinai
We arrived down in front of Saint Catherine at 8:40 a.m. I was completly exhausted and ready to take a shower. Our bedouin left us in the hands of our tourist guide.
I thought to myself, how will I now survive the tour of the Saint Catherine monastery! So many pilgrims, who had come for the hike or just for the tour, arrived at the same time, trying to go through the miniature front door. We made our way in. I was half asleep listening to the guide and walking like a zomby through the monastery, queuing the best I could to see this amazing site.
After an hour, which seemed like an eternity, we walked back to the parking lot in the valley Wadi-el-Sheik.
Having climbed up and down the holy mountain, I thought of Moses. How could he have managed to climb the mountain twice in those days and at such an old age!
Tired as you couldn’t imagine, I could not close my eyes. I was already thinking, what a shame that it was all over. See you next time Mount Sinai.
Spiny globe thistle, Mount Sinai
Sinai Mullein, Mount Sinai
Rare plant: Sinai Gerusalem sage
Purple plant on a rocky path in Mount Sinai
Felty Germander on rocky Mount Sinai path
Have you missed part I? Click here
